Ireland, Post 1

I'm back! And what a time we had. Now, where to start telling you about it?

We started our time in Ireland by driving straight across the country for our first airbnb night. You know, it's a real challenge to be in the air all night (with a stopover in Iceland), then immediately jump into a rental car that has you driving on the wrong side of the car and wrong side of the road right off the bat.

The first of many stone cottages I would photograph. I could
not get enough of them, it seemed.

It might sound odd to say we drove across the country in a few hours, but it's true. Ireland is a small place, only three-quarters the size of Ohio actually. The roads are not quite as good as we're used to however, so it takes a bit longer to go the same distance. Which was fine with us because we wanted to see the countryside, not zoom past it.

Inside Mary's

 We were really tired though, so as soon as we got a chance we started looking for a nice pub to stop for lunch. We found one in a little place called Coralstock called Mary's Public House. It was almost 1:00pm, but we hadn't had breakfast, and I was craving some eggs.

Mary had just opened, and when I asked about breakfast she said she didn't really serve it, but she could fix us up. Heaven! Eggs, good sausage and bacon, big pieces of toast and jam, and tea, all in the most quaint of pubs. It was a great start to our trip.

We drove onward to Easkey in County Sligo, and Carmel's b&b. It took us a while because we were tired and still getting used to the roads, but we arrived in good time, and were welcomed into a warm kitchen heated with a peat fire, and the smell of bread baking and soup cooking. Carmel made a big pot of tea for us, and we sat around the kitchen table talking like old friends with her, her daughter and her daughter's boyfriend. The scent of lilies added to the good smells--the boyfriend had brought them. Soon another b&b guest arrived. John was from Brooklyn, NY, a surfer who had come to try out the waves. We all sat and talked about folklore and history and American politics, and soon Deidre (the daughter) was inviting us to stay for dinner. Who could resist? The sweet potato soup was heavenly and I intend to try making it myself. And the bread--warm with Irish butter, perfection.

After dinner and more talk, we all decided to go to the pub. Deidre and her guy stayed behind to take care of yet more guests that had arrived, but Carmel took us and John to her local, as they call their local pub. It was small and comfortable, wood-lined and warm. The setting was pure Irish, out in the countryside, with a ruined church across the way. The church, Carmel told us, had been burned out by the IRA back during the troubles, a reminder that Northern Ireland and its hard history wasn't so far away.

We had a blast in the pub. One would think we'd have been ready for an early night, but we ended up staying until closing, talking and laughing and singing, and Carmel recited a couple of Yeats poems. What an evening.

Next morning we were up and out by 10am, ready to drive on to our next destination, Roundstone. We took Carmel's suggestion as to the route we should try, and it turned out to be excellent advice.

More on that in my next post.

Copyright Susanna Holstein. All rights reserved. No Republication or Redistribution Allowed without attribution to Susanna Holstein.

A Welcome Place: Merthyr Tydfil

Our host was not at home when we arrived in Merthyr Tydfil, so we made our way to the local pub where my phone would work and I could call to see when she might be in. By this time, we were both longing for something cold! The Red Lion was not actually open; the doors were open but there were workmen and vans out front. Ever hopeful, Larry stuck his head in to ask. The painter said, sure come on in!

Which we did, He pulled a beer for Larry and poured a perfectly chilled white wine for me and assured us the owner would be in soon. In the meantime I was able to reach our host by phone; she was unexpectedly called away from home for a few days but had everything ready for us, and her best friend would meet us to show us around the house. 

The owner of the pub had come in by then and he was curious about these two strangers in his pub. When we explained why we were there, he told us that he had just returned from Columbus, Ohio where he'd been visiting his daughter who was a designer for Abercrombie & Fitch. Columbus is only 2 hours from our home in West Virginia--another small-world moment. He suggested we come back down once we got settled in our b&b. 

This was the sight that greeted us when we returned to the b&b. Is this not delightful? This house was once a miner's cottage, a semi-detached high on the hill overlooking the city. 

 And look at this kitchen! I felt right at home here. Hidden behind the cabinet doors are a washer, fridge, and dishwasher. And don't you love that farmhouse sink.

Everywhere were perfect vignettes, proof of the care and love the owner had for her home.

The listing on AirBnB said that the stairs were winding and steep, and that was no lie. We were very careful negotiating them!

 In the extensive gardens, another farmhouse sink, this one being used as a planter.

The walkway along the front of this unit of about four homes.

One of many sitting places in the garden, looking over the city far below. It was so quiet here, odd to think so much activity was taking place down there and we couldn't even hear it.

We took up the suggestion of the innkeeper and returned to the Red Lion. I wondered as we went in, would they mind us being there? The owner, had said that there were all locals who came every evening. Would we be in their way, intruding on their time together?

 I worried for nothing. As we walked in the people in the bar all raised their glasses in greeting and shouted, "West Virginia!" We were immediately at home, surrounded by interesting and interested people who came from a variety of professions--accountants, research scientists, automotive industry executive, a government tax inspector, a nurse and others.

When I told people we were going to Merthyr Tydfil, the reaction was always the same: "Why? That's not very nice down there. Industrial, ugly." But that was not our experience. We found the people and the place fascinating. Granted, we did not get to explore the town, but the little slice of it we experienced made us want to return someday to see more.

It may not be tourist-pretty, but it's real, and that is what interests me most.



Copyright Susanna Holstein. All rights reserved. No Republication or Redistribution Allowed without attribution to Susanna Holstein.

Calne, AirBnB and Ghosts

We stayed in Calne, a bustling market town not far from Bristol, for our second night and our first AirBnB experience.

I selected this b&b mainly for its proximity to Avebury and for being on the route we planned to take north to visit family. It was a perfect choice for us. Susan, our host, has a beautiful home right on the main route. It was noisier than we're used to but so convenient. And just down the street was the White Hart pub, perfect for one of our goals, meeting and talking to locals along our way.

We had a great time at the pub. We got into conversation with a younger local couple, and by odd coincidence discovered that the man's father was actually from West Virginia. This small world. It was such fun, and I am sorry that I did not get their contact information as I would like to have stayed in touch. They told us about a ghost in this 16th century inn, a young girl in Victorian dress who shows up unexpectedly in photos. I am sorry to say I took no photos inside the inn as by then my phone battery was dead and I did not have my camera with me. There have been a lot of strange happenings in this inn, and its long history includes suicides, murders, and possibly exorcisms. Part of the inn is built on a foundation of stones from Avebury.

There have been several ghost-hunting/paranormal investigators who have visited here and written accounts of their experiences. Another local tale involves a young boy,  nine-year-old William Granville Petty who was reportedly seen by Dr Alsop of Calne in January 1778. Before his death, the boy foresaw his funeral in a dream. He described the dream to Joseph Priestley, who was the Bowood librarian at the time (and later discovered oxygen--librarians do rock!).

Our host's home was well-decorated and so comfortable. We enjoyed breakfast with Susan, talking about her interesting life and travels and American politics, a topic that followed us everywhere in England. They're paying attention over there! Susan's garden was like a little jewel.

This little fireplace stove was in our room. How cute is that? We saw these all over England, inserted into fireplaces that probably once burned coal.

This first excellent AirBnB experience was a relief. We wondered how it would be. Hosts for AirBnB are usually just people with extra space to rent out for a little income. For Susan, it's a way to meet interesting people. At $55 for the night (which included a fairly large continental breakfast), it was a real bargain. It's becoming extremely popular and bringing some economic impact to communities that might otherwise never have tourists visiting. We loved this first night and looked forward to the rest of our stays during our travels.

Copyright Susanna Holstein. All rights reserved. No Republication or Redistribution Allowed without attribution to Susanna Holstein.