Covid Journal, Day 30: Going Back to England and St. Michael's Mount

63 this morning, overcast and wild winds yet again. I am so sorry for those in the South affected by the terrible storms last night. This has been a Spring we will not forget.

I realized the other day that I never did finish my posts about my trip to England with two of my sisters last August. So today, let's go to England--virtually anyway, since that country is as locked down as we are, or perhaps more so.

One of the places I did not write about was St. Michael's Mount. Out in the middle of Mount's Bay in southern Cornwall is a tidal island. The only way to the island is a stone path that is open at low tide; otherwise the island must be accessed by boat. Originally the site was a monastery, then a convent. The oldest building on the island, including the castle or at least parts of it, dates to about the 12th century. A terrible tsunami struck the coast of Cornwall in 1755 following an earthquake in Lisbon, Portugal and caused great damage and loss of life as the sea rose and fell 6 feet over and over for several hours. The island, the castle and the village surrounding it have belonged to Colonel John St Aubyn since 1659, and is still owned and inhabited by his descendants.

We got an early start to get to Marazion, the town on the shore just across from the island, and where the stone path begins. We had to wait about 20 minutes for the tide to go our and the path to be passable.

We also knew we had to return before 4:00 pm or the incoming tide would cover the path and we'd have to find passage on one of the several boats there--enterprising fellows probably make a good living ferrying tourists back and forth.

There were a surprising number of people making their way to the island the day we were there.

It was Bank Holidays, so that probably explains the crowds.

Once on the island, we walked up the steep stone lane that wound up and up and up to the castle. I stopped as we started up, just to listen to an energetic young storyteller telling a Jack tale to families lounging on blankets on the grass. Part of her story concerns the giant's stone heart, which was supposedly embedded in the stone lane.

All around the base of the hill on which the castle sits arethe medieval stone buildings of the castle village.

As we ascended we kept a sharp eye out for that giant's heart. We stopped to talk with others on the same quest, and eventually, success! It was a nice diversion and allowed some time to catch our breath.

At the castle we were met by tour guides. We were free to wander at will if we wanted, but chose to join a tour for a while.

Later I found myself separated from my sisters somehow, as the place is a regular rabbit warren of doors, rooms, and corridors.

This one particular corridor entranced me. I later learned that this is one of the haunted places in the castle. According to the story we heard, a grey lady has been seen to rush down the corridor and throw herself out a window at one end. There was certainly an eerie feeling there.

But for me the very best part of the castle wasn't all the rich furnishings, old armor

and all that. It was the view.

Far below I could see a gardener hard at work on the terraced gardens. These gardens were designed to be viewed from above, and they're spectacular.

I spent a lot of time just gazing out over the scene, thinking of how it might have been in earlier times.

Before long it was time to trek back down the hill to find lunch. Everyplace was crowded but eventually we succeeded. Then we wandered the craft shops for a while before noticing that the tide was coming in quickly, and it was time to make our way back to the beautiful drive into the village of Boscastle and our b&b.

Copyright Susanna Holstein. All rights reserved. No Republication or Redistribution Allowed without attribution to Susanna Holstein.

Bodmin Moor

So we went Bodmin.

Anyone who has watched the BBC series Doc Martin knows what that means! It's the Cornish way of saying someone is losing their mind. The reason for the phrase is simple--the Cornwall County Asylum was once located in the town of Bodmin. The place has a less than ideal history, way less actually.

Bodmin is also the name of a fascinating place called Bodmin Moor. The moor features neolithic tombs, old mining engine houses, strange rock formations, roaming cattle and sheep, a huge old quarry that provided the stone for the supports of the Tower Bridge in London, old mine diggings, menhirs (prehistoric standing stones) and more.

We did not get to explore everything the moor had to offer--that would take days or even weeks. But we did visit an engine house museum and the strange stone formations that stand on top of the old quarry. And we saw the hermit's stone house.

A Cornish engine house. These dot the landscape in Cornwall, and were used in the heyday of tin, silver, and copper mining.

Inside this engine house is a museum/interpretive site:

And then, on to the moor,

 to the standing stones known as The Hurlers,

and then to the quarry and the strange natural stone formation called The Cheesewring that stands on top of it.

It was a bit windy! Well, Cornwall is usually windy. After all, it's surrounded on three sides by water, and it's only 25 miles from one coast to the other.

The was the home of Daniel Gumb and his wife Florence and their 6 children. Imagine living in a cave with 6 children!  

Gumb carved his name and a date on the stone. He also carved mathematical formulas on the stones, and was considered by many as a hermit genius.

And there stands the Cheesewring, atop the quarry. The walk up isn't easy; there are many loose stones and some very steep and precipitous places to travel. As one who can get an attack of vertigo at any time, it was a challenge, but one I wanted to take. When I was here in 2016, this was as close as I got as the vertigo was particularly bad. But this time I was determined to get to the top.

Looking down into the quarry. There is an old railbed that can be walked right into the quarry, as you can see in the photo.

 Such a view! In the far distance, I could see just the edge of the sea.

And we made it!

Every picture of Theresa and me at the stones has this strange rainbow-like appearance. The fairies at work?

My sisters, feeling accomplished for having made this tricky trek!

Judy wanted to climb to the top of these stones, but there must be a nest of bees in there, because they were everywhere. So she dashed over for this photo and retreated, leaving the stingers in peace.

Rocks, rocks, hills and views. What a beautiful place. What a beautiful day.

I love this picture of my sister Theresa. She looks so content.

As does Judy. We just sat there and looked. And looked and looked and looked, trying to fill our memories with the magic of Bodmin Moor.

I think this young man was feeling the magic too, as he stood quietly looking over the hills.

And then we said goodbye to The Cheesewring, and started back down.

One day I want to go back. This place has gotten under my skin and I can't seem to get enough of it. Will I make it back in this lifetime? One never knows, and I am getting older, but I would love to sit on those rocks again, looking over the beautiful Bodmin Moor.

Copyright Susanna Holstein. All rights reserved. No Republication or Redistribution Allowed without attribution to Susanna Holstein.