Boscastle: Folklore, Magic and More at the British Museum of Witchcraft and Magic

I was delighted to once again be able to visit the British Museum of Witchcraft and Magic while in Boscastle. Our schedule was so full that I was afriad time might not allow for a visit, and I had to forego a walk on the coast path--which I would have loved to do--in order to fit this visit in.That is the biggest problem with travel, I think: there is always more to see and do than can possibly be crowded in to a week or two.

I took my time walking down to the museum from our b&b. It was a lovely morning, not too many people yet out and about. Later in the day the village is crowded as it is a popular place for tourists.

A used book store! And in such a quirky little building, of course I had to go look. 

And buy an old out-of-print book.

Booklovers joy--shelves and shelves of books, all neatly organized. While I was browsing a man came in--the space was so small that we had to kind of work around each other. We started talking, and had the most delightful conversation, finding we shared many common interests. A recent study suggests that talking to strangers is good for us and tends to make us feel happier. I firmly believe in that theory, as I have met so many good people on my travels, and had the best conversations with them.

Finally, inside the museum!

Display after display of the most interesting artifacts. Some things I knew about, but most of it is so strange and out there, at least to me. Still, it's fascinating to see what people believed would somehow help them in their lives--or, darkly, injure others. I know there are still people who believe in these cures, charms and spells, but for me these things are of folkloric interest, and fodder for stories. You can enlarge the photos by clicking on them so that the labels might be readable.

I actually own a "dark mirror" similar to these, that I bought at a yard sale. It came with the strangest story, one I have no yet told but will be part of my presentation at the West Virginia Book Festival next week.

The inside of the museum is a unique space, with the feeling of being in a cave or a hobbit hole.

The Crone's Kitchen includes a narration by the crone of her spells and charms.  Evidently the voice and narrative were changed a few years ago.

Here is a video of the original voice of "Joan the Crone", re-created by the original "Joan", Cassandra Latham-Jones, in her own cottage:

You can read more about Cassandra and the museum's history on her blog.

Carved into the wall outside:

And finally, back into the light, literally and figuratively. I came home with several new books from the museum, all good material for storytelling as well as for interpreting things from old folktales and folklore. I meandered back through the village, stopping for tea and a wonderful Cornish delight called a "flapjack." It's sort of like a Rice Krispie Treat, only made with oats, I think, and slathered in chocolate. Sugar shock for sure.

As I made my way back through the village I met a black lady named Jackie. She was trying to decide if she wanted to go back to the cafe and buy a cake. "I'm a carer," she said, "and going to visit one of my patients. She always makes tea for me, so I was thinking maybe I would bring a cake."

She decided against the cake in the end, and we walked along together and talked. She told me she'd lived in Boscastle for 15 years and loved it there. I asked where people did their shopping, because while the village is full of tourist shops, there are no real stores for groceries, clothes, hardware, etc. She said they went to a town about 20 miles away, or drove into the city of Truro, an hour or more distant. Jackie told me her family was originally from the Caribbean, and that she had many relatives in Florida, where she hoped to go for a visit one day. I did not ask the one question I've been wondering about ever since our conversation: how did she end up in Cornwall, so far from the Caribbean?

For more about the museum, visit these links:

The museum's website gives a good overview and information about visiting.

From a review on Britain Express: "It is a real eye-opener and helps give historical context to the often sensationalised portrayal of witchcraft and magic in films and television. I was enormously impressed by the museum; it is a place to browse slowly and learn, and it helps if you start with an open mind."

More information and photos at Cornwall Museums.

Copyright Susanna Holstein. All rights reserved. No Republication or Redistribution Allowed without attribution to Susanna Holstein.